When the Cheshire emerges...

Before I got to really explore Broken Hill, I chose to pre-book a day trip out to Mutawintji National Park through Tri-State Safaris to see 40,000-year-old Aboriginal engravings within a natural habitat.

On pick-up, I was offered the chance to sit up front with the tour guide or in the back with everyone else (all the oldies, because unfortunately no-one my age does these sorts of tours). A bit surprised at my guide's offer but I sat in the back because seniors can sometimes be the most curious travellers. I certainly had a sprightly bunch that day!

We had tea and cake in a dry creek bed, held a shingleback lizard on the middle of the dusty road, and saw some amazing Aboriginal engravings and hand stencils.

I really got a lot out of this day, learning from guide Mark about some of the customs Aboriginal groups follow in their youth and entering adulthood.



I can't believe I held a lizard!

Mark was awesome. He's from the land and knew his stuff.

We were first told a Dreamtime story detailing a punishment from God.

Part of Aboriginal initiation ceremonies, these could be a couple of hundred years old.

See the emu? Controversially dated as possibly more than 50,000 years old.

OK, this was back in Broken Hill, but somewhere inaccessible without Mark and his trusty driving.

Broken Hill, otherwise known as the Silver City, is the "accessible Outback".

I'd now crossed the halfway point towards Adelaide, but had only been on the road for two days.

I spent four nights/three days based in Broken Hill as there was a lot around it. I would take in Silverton and the Mundi Mundi Plains for one afternoon and Mutawintji National Park on another day.

Broken Hill itself is the home of Broken Hill Proprietary, otherwise known as BHP and now BHP Billiton. After stopping productions there for some time, they have started again. Though it was interesting to find out BHP had left the city's people without hundreds of jobs back in the 1950s and there was still lingering hostility about it.

With parts of Priscilla: Queen of the Desert filmed around town, and a town hall that is only a facade (yep, it's a facing on the main street but behind is actually a car park), it's a strange one. I also went through trying to get a tail-light situation fixed after someone decided to smash it in and take a globe out. Fun.

But it's home to Taylor Walker, Crows forward extraordinaire, so all good. I didn't mind the place.

The best ravioli I've ever had. Hands down.

Pro Hart's gallery - he was such an amazing artist.

I paid my respects the following day... a huge plot.

A memorial for all the miners who died at Broken Hill.

The Living Desert Sculptures were wonderful...

One of the best sunsets ever.

My walking tour included an impromptu meeting with the just re-elected mayor.

There's no doubt what you'll find here...

Inside The Palace Hotel, made famous in Priscilla

The best thing of South Broken Hill - Bell's Milk Bar!

They're the Silver City - so of course they're going to have a silver tree!