When the Cheshire emerges...

Today has been a poignant date for me in the 2012 calendar, marking a huge milestone in my life.

A year ago today was a very special time for me - leaving Australia for Singapore and then Europe for the first time by myself.

It was an emotional morning after a 4:30am rise. I was worried I'd packed too much (as always), worried I'd forgotten something, and then after all that had major self-doubts about the 15 weeks I was about to embark on. I'd been unsure of the direction I wanted to take in life after failing to find a 'career' job post-university and felt guilty for wanting to experience Europe a second time... all sorts of things were going through my head.

I cried for most of the way from Adelaide to Melbourne. Then stepping on the connection to Singapore breathed new life into me and I was excited. I remember the amazing feeling I had walking through Changi Airport on arrival so vividly still, and then in the shuttle into Singapore City...

My first photo off the plane, from the shuttle.

First song I heard on the radio: Wonderwall by Oasis. A foreshadow of the epic events that were about to take place.

***

I heard Wonderwall today as I hopped in the car for a five-minute trip. Fancy that... I remembered how HAPPY I was in that moment a whole year ago, hearing that song and looking out the window to this and more greenery. Rushing towards me was a feeling of every possibility opening up to you and wanting to grab everything with open arms, the good and the bad. I'd had that experience in 2010 with my friends but now I was going it alone. And the thought of becoming a true solo traveller thrilled me.

I'm going to be posting a bunch of A year ago today... posts over the next few months to make up for my lack of picture blogging during the trip itself. And also to act as a bit of catharsis because I can't believe that much time has already passed. The last 12 months have been truly life-changing, during that trip and the events following.

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In those 12 months I was lucky enough to have my 2012 adventure across the ditch. I loved the two weeks I spent in New Zealand and it clearly wasn't enough. I've just written a series on my time there; I hope those who saw my entries enjoyed reading about my experiences as much as I've loved reliving them!

The series in full, if you want to go back all over again too:

New Zealand makes you: test your limits
New Zealand makes you: buy vintage and not buy shoes
New Zealand makes you: spend all your money and then some
New Zealand makes you: thankful for the Australian summer
New Zealand makes you: discover their sweet as confectionery
New Zealand makes you: too busy to record your thoughts
New Zealand makes you: realise they're not Australian
New Zealand makes you: laugh at misfortune
New Zealand makes you: dress up as an elf
New Zealand makes you: try McDonalds

Like the Czech Republic and Slovakia, Australia and New Zealand have similar menus. I hadn't visited an Aussie Maccas in some time before heading over the ditch so I remain unaware if the Chicken Scorcher was also a limited edition burger at home. This came after a four-hour bus trip and I was grateful for it.

New Zealand really made itself known on the Hollywood scale after the likes of The Piano but really it was a trilogy by Peter Jackson that caused an explosion and formed a decent part of the reason for me wanting to visit.

In Wellington I got myself on a Lord of the Rings full-day tour. EPIC.

Me as Legolas in Rivendell.

Not one of my finest moments but it was fun...

This tree was actually never in the film, merely for the famous promotional picture of Legolas ahead of Fellowship of the Ring.

Other highlights:

Hiding from the evil forces as we left Hobbiton.


*I remain in touch with Frodo (left) and the Black Rider. Good times.

Visiting Weta Cave.


 And actually seeing something on The Hobbit set from outside Stonestreet Studios.

As I said in my previous NZ post, the Kiwis have the right sort of attitude for life. As such, they've definitely had to rely on it in times of hardship in the last year.

The visit to Christchurch was terribly saddening because of the destruction that still remains after the big earthquakes. I was shocked to see that there was just that much left to clean up still and had destroyed not only buildings but the routine of life - work, socialising...

But the lovely people of the city seem to be doing much better than anyone's giving them credit for. Laughing in the face of misfortune #1:

How could they be laughing at themselves like this? Another one was "It's considered normal to have a drop hole in the backyard." (I was told by my friend later that was because the sewerage was wrecked in a large part of the city). I look around incredulously and the assistant just said to me "It's good, isn't it?" I replied that I thought it was so great they can see the situation as such and she shrugged and said:

"You just have to laugh at it, what else are you going to do?"
"Some days are hard but you keep going."

Amazing spirit from these people all around. I really should have bought the book.

***

I had my own slight New Zealand misfortune in the idyllic Bay of Islands as I was about to head to the beach. My tiny orange padlock (and I mean tiny) was stuffing up on me and decided to lock all my stuff in the hostel room locker after snapping the key clean in half. It was already late afternoon so I was on limited time for good sun. Bolt cutters were missing on site, and then the lovely Mexican receptionist went everywhere hunting for them. What he found were garden shears.

Laughing at misfortune #3

After being watched by my German and Dutch roommates not having much luck, I enlisted their help to pull the lock as I tried to crush the loop bit. Mr Mexican Man had to attend to customers... he came back a few minutes after we'd reduced the tiny lock to this.


Needless to say, I didn't get to the beach. That waited another day.

But at the same time I think they kind of are...

Putting things into context, I always had the idea that the Kiwis were similar to Australians, which they definitely are in their laidback atttiude. But among other things, sampling the best of the sweet stuff in New Zealand made me realise that they do have their differences.

Except for when it comes their news.

While a story of how one parent was petitioning for bail laws to be changed was worthy of nationwide news and a lead, it fell second best all day to showing Australian reports of Julia Gillard going head-to-head with Kevin Rudd for the leadership (again). They do have their own political parties don't they?!

Of course they do.

What I'm really getting at here is that sometimes, just sometimes I think they DO want our approval and to be connected to us.

We have rivalries, yes. They pay us Aussies out like there's no tomorrow, yes. And we give them a bit of a stickling too. But we help them. They WANT us there. We are brothers.

***

In totally unrelated, and now slightly untimely, news, I have to mention the madness that was what they dubbed 1D-Day. One Direction hitting Sydney yesterday was absolutely ridiculous. I'm six hours away and thought they were screaming right in my ear. I, like everyone else in my workplace, just don't get it. Perhaps if I was 14 again...

The time you spend on overseas trips should be amazing. It's a time where you forget about everything you know and just roll with what you want to see and do.
(Okay, you can't forget your bankcard details and how to say 'hello, how are you' in any given language...)

Writing for a living now, I expected that a three-week holiday wouldn't present any problems in keeping up to date with my thoughts. The two weeks in New Zealand particularly were meant to be very relaxed.

But as I discovered once again, I'm notorious for not being able to keep up to speed.

Edinburgh, 2011

In New Zealand and on my European trips, I loved sitting in a cafe and just wiling away a couple of hours over decent sweets and processing my recent experiences. Sitting in JK Rowling's seat at The Elephant House writing as she did for Harry Potter was pretty awe-inspiring to say the least.

But all in all, my European travels were bad. For trip one (2010) I wrote about 30,000 words after coming home, which I think took the better part of two weeks, or months maybe. Trip two last year is even worse. Yes, IS.

I'm still trying to recount events.

From as early as April when I left. IT'S APRIL AGAIN NOW. Let's just say I've had a huge weight on my shoulders for some time.

Queenstown, 2012

Back on New Zealand, I had too good a time to be writing to myself every night. It was more chilled overall but I still wandered around places more than expected. So instead of writing a blog for my lovely readers last night (whoever you may be, make yourselves known one day and say hi :D ), I focused on finishing the latest thing that I'd started. And at 11:58pm I was DONE.

A massive wave of relief came over me, as well as a blistered finger and cramped arm. Yes, I hand-wrote it all. And that was only for a three-week trip.

I've been working on and off on collecting Europe 2011 thoughts for some time, but with this achievement (and a welcome change in working hours) I think I'm on a roll. The sense of achievement I'll feel when this is done will be UN.BE.LEIVE.A.BLE, because I AM going to do it.

DO you have a bad record with diary entries on holidays? I feel like I'm the worst in the world so I'd love to hear what anyone thinks!

Moral of the story: their chocolate is good. I find it fascinating that these are NZ specialties, so close to home but non-existent in Australia :D

New Zealand is a cold country. Obviously in the South Island with the Alpine Belt and all, but pretty much all around it's got a cooler climate than Australia. Being Feb/March on my visit though, I went with the presumption it would be at its warmest.

Boy, did I get the shock of my life...

Australia had a pretty shite summer, so I was hopeful that NZ might be a bit better. Turns out they'd had a pretty average time too, even for them. While Auckland and the Bay of Islands had T-shirt weather (just), for the rest of the trip I was severely underprepared. Devastated.

These are some of the tops I took with me, real light cotton tops (excuse the average photo). My two 'jumpers' and my jeans were failsafes for most of the trip. I regretted not bringing a scarf from home often. But it was SUMMER, I wasn't going to have a scarf on! Oh, but I was. The morning in Wellington before purchasing said scarf would have been the most worthy to use it of all.



Saturday March 3. A weather bomb hit the capital, with winds of up to 250 kilometres per hour lashing out across the whole region, damaging homes and such as well as cancelling all flights and ferries. Funny story, I was being driven along part of the coastline, and on attempt to get outside for a photo of the sea I almost caused the passenger car door to be swung clean off, and then couldn't stand still enough to take a straight shot as you can see. I've experienced nothing like it. The worst 'summer' weather I could possibly imagine.

But for all that, the Kiwis have a very carefree approach.

Wellington is known as the Windy City. Told by plenty a local that an umbrella wasn't even worth taking out with you, I still stuck with it. I got approval from just one person, which made me realise pretty quickly that they were probably right.

Down in the south I found they had a similar attitude.

Arrowtown

Queenstown

It did get better. But I still think it's so abnormal being so close to us yet with a totally whacked-out plan from Mother Nature. My first day in Melbourne (three after flying back into Australia) was 31 degrees. Now that's what I'm talking about. I missed half of Australia's decent summer time battling 14 degree temperatures and weather bombs. But I wouldn't change a thing.

Moral of the story: bring warmish clothes but ditch the umbrellas, even if it's pouring. It's summer after all, why ruin it by acting differently? :D

***

Still more to come in the New Zealand makes you... series so keep a lookout!

Being Australian, I always imagined going to NZ would be cheap. I'd come back from Europe twice with a good amount of money to spare, so for a fortnight across the ditch I thought I'd be rolling in it. It was the first time I'd ever gotten MORE for the Australian dollar on a large scale. Staying with friends for about half the time was also going to save me a couple of hundred or so right?

Weird money

I did take a skydive into account, that it would cost about $500 or so with photos. The money just felt lighter... seriously, it IS lighter now since they changed it a few years back. The 10c piece so often confused with ours can't be anymore because it's changed colour!

But it didn't hit me until three days in that I would really be pushing it with the money I'd brought over. I struggled to stay away from vintage clothes in Auckland on day four - I regretted putting down a $5 top only to have a girl carry it around the store some two minutes later. Bad afternoon that was.

By the time I got to Wellington and my friend Laura said that it shouldn't really be a problem because I WAS still getting more bang for my buck. She was totally right. I ended up splurging on about NZ$100 on clothes that day and didn't feel bad for it (read my full purchase wrap when you can). And later on plenty of coffee and cake. I was getting 25 per cent off everything after all right?

More where that came from... how else can you best observe a city?

In Queenstown, the skydive did cost me about what I thought. And then I did the canyon swing (read my first entry of the NZ makes you series on that). I had to transfer more money with four days to go - and then I didn't realise that could take three days. To say I was worried for about 24 hours was an understatement.

But all came through and I survived. And I DID come home with money! Just part of the backup I didn't intend on using. Oops :D

***

Check in the same time tomorrow for how I dealt with the NZ summer!

***

All local prices.
NZ: pink mohair handmade knitted jumper - $45, grey fitted mid-length coat - $35 (same store), Reiss flowy patterned skirt - $12, Paper Bag Princess. All Wellington.
Australia: orange/blue checked long-sleeve winter top - $15, camel woolen shorts - $45, queen justine vintage. Both Bondi Markets.




NZ: two-for-one sunnies - $25, Pagani (Christchurch), stud earrings - $4.95 (Queenstown Mall), plastic Tikis - $1.20 (Rotorua).

Moral of the story: I couldn't resist Wellington's vintage charm. I may not have bought shoes but there are other ways to spoil yourself. I'll do a Europe and buy bigger on shoes for NZ trip #2.

I've decided to write a small series of blogs about my two weeks in NZ and why it was so freakin' amazing. The first topic is a pretty obvious one.

I wanted to scare the pants off myself.

Okay, so maybe not that dramatic. But I'd set my sights on doing a skydive in Queenstown, as a follow-up to July 2010's first dive in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland.

I'd heard while still on the North Island that doing it over Lake Taupo is better and cheaper, but that wasn't part of the itinerary so had to give it a miss.

Hanging out for Queenstown, I got there with such excitement. I got off the plane and thought I was in the Swiss Alps or Austria all over again. Salzburg more particularly as I also flew in there at the time (2011).

I got to my hostel, put the baggage in storage, then went straight to the travel desk. There was a skydive group going in fifteen minutes and clouds emerging meant it could be my only chance for the day. With rain forecast for the next day I didn't take my chances.

While Switzerland was 12,000ft out of a helicopter (special, yes) I chose 9,000 this time. Partly for difference, partly for affordability to also get the photos. Not a cheap exercise. I was the only one to get photos out of eight, which I thought really weird.

But as you can see, totally worth it.



I was calm, I had trouble breathing properly with all the wind during the freefall as with the first time, but it was sweet. Exactly as it should've been. Excellent.

What I DIDN'T see coming was my decision on day two. Enticed by March's offer of 'do a tandem swing, get one free' I was accompanied by new friend Laura and we went to swing across Shotover Canyon.



Swing #1 was okay. Talked shit a lot to calm any nerves because they suspended us so freakin' long it was ridiculous. But it was fun and a great experience with Laura.

Then it was time to go solo.

Choosing a forward jump, I thought I was harnessed from the top and then realised there was still the element of jumping off a cliff. It nearly didn't end well.



I was helped off in the end, and I have no shame. This was still a HUGE step for me because while skydives don't scare me, this whole flinging yourself off a cliff by yourself does. I screamed that canyon DOWN.



Moral of the story: Queenstown rules for making crazy dares look awesome and living up to that. I tested myself and won. I keep thinking about where I'm going to do my next skydive at least. After all, I do need to get the breathing thing under control :)

The New Zealand debate is over. I have decided. I can only justify staying in Christchurch for a day at the most, to see some stuff and pass through to the other part of the South Island (I really do plan to make it down there, just undecided on exactly where at this point).

They had ANOTHER ONE. I was worried here and then again soon after. But this one in the 'burbs is strike three. I can't bring myself to bypass it completely, but one day should be enough at this point in time.

Only five weeks to go! Excitement! I need to buy travel insurance...

Has anyone seen this shitty excuse for a travel article? First the Sydney Morning Herald were reporting on the outrage from New Zealanders... continuing on from the previous entry on my uncertainty of visiting Christchurch, I can kind of see their point.

Then it got ridiculous.

Perth and the western coast were a possible no-go. Because of shark attacks apparently. NEWSFLASH: THEY'RE EVERYWHERE. Especially if you don't swim between the flags like you're told. What a joke.

Then (of course, of course) there was Greece. Yes, they've had riots. Yes they're financially unstable. But why fuel the theory that Greece is only ever good for the islands??? Ok so there's a tiiiny bit of bias being of Greek heritage - BUT - this is something I have never really understood since first visiting.

The islands are pretty amazing. I've been to six. And will go back for more. But the mainland is different entirely and is interesting for it. Athens is a MUST for the Acropolis and surrounds, yet people don't give it the time of day or go there expecting a Paris and then become sorely disappointed. The history is what makes the country, and if you can ever get further north than Athens, or Patra on the Pelopponnese, the never-ending mountains as well as artefacts will entrance and surprise you. Plus Thessaloniki has a similar vibe to Melbourne in its chilled nightlife, a very cool place.

My point: she said to tread lightly in Athens and only go to the islands right? She's obviously never been there. If there's more taxi strikes or what not (which I don't see happening now their summer's over) where's the first place they hit? The ports. That's where you DON'T want to be. I went through it and considered myself lucky to have hit the mainland by then, except when it affected us in Corfu (Kerkyra). I'll post a video from that someday.

In short, the article is utter rubbish.

PS: SMH has pushed me towards Christchurch being on the itinerary through this story. And THIS photo...

That's a shopping mall. From shipping containers. That's just a bit cool. It looks like Lego that I want to play with.

Sorry for the delay everyone, my parents' visit meant I had to take a holiday break from my entries. Seeing as I worked for most of the period I had to take a break from something. But I'm back and re-energized for 2012!

My next overseas adventure is shortly directing me towards The Land of the Long White Cloud, and I've finally started researching. I'm becoming more and more excited as I try to decide what to cover over the fortnight I'm in New Zealand, and glad I'm spending four days in the Bay of Islands - it's going to be STUNNING! Plus I'll be with my tour buddies for that so it'll be even better - places like this look like they're best enjoyed with great company.

But as we all know New Zealand has some current rebuilding issues, physically and emotionally. This is thankfully only limited to one city, but Christchurch is a pretty unfortunate example. The news that they've had more aftershocks today is so sad to hear when they're trying so hard to rebuild from TWO earthquakes in a year. How does that happen? Why?

It leaves me with a tough choice to make as an outsider going in. I hate to be voicing this thought, but it came to me after reading today's news. Do I skip Christchurch? If I make this sound pretty heavy and you don't think that's justified, think about it. The city is rebuilding. AGAIN. If today hadn't happened maybe I'd think differently. But the fact that it has probably means it's better if I don't put myself at risk and miss it completely.

I really don't want to do that, but I have to put my safety first. Yes, anywhere else could also have natural disasters, but it's got me worried. And it would no doubt have the parents worried also. I hate to do that to the city and its people because it seems I'm forgetting they exist and they need the support. I'm in two minds.

Question time: Should I go? Give me a reason NOT to skip it and you might be the reason I do. But if you think I should give it a miss, tell me why and you could be just as influential. Seriously.

The main thing I heard about Dubbo before the move from so many people it was ridiculous was ‘oh, they’ve got a good zoo there’. So I knew it was worth a visit – but have I visited Taronga Western Plains Zoo yet? Drove into the grounds for the first time on Tuesday for a story and the only animal I saw was a bird (pelican maybe?).

Besides the zoo, I’ve been in Dubbo for a month today and finally feel settled. So much that I’ve already taken two weeks off in February/March to roam around New Zealand. Funny how that works. But the first 30 days have proven less stressful than I thought they’d be. Sure, getting a place to live was a big deal and I had more than one call that came right down to the wire. But I believe more with every day that passes that life has a way of working itself out. I live a 30 second walk from the city’s hotspot and cheapest schnitties ($6.50 on wed/sat nights, take that Hackney Hotel!)… nuff said. Oh and below is my amazing and really easy green chicken curry that Dad thought was at a Thai restaurant. I'm learning!

To events in the Central West, and there’s a lot going on. The inaugural DREAM Festival is giving locals a huge chance to get out in the community and I for one can’t wait to see Rocky Horror at the Old Dubbo Gaol’s open air cinema tomorrow night. I visited the gaol doing my touristy thing and it managed to scare the bejeebuz out of me in broad daylight. The place has a lot of history. and it’s quite exciting finding out what else is going on around the region – hoping to see the Reds play Newcastle in Bathurst in January, and doing weekend trips around the place.

Dear Diary,

I've found my groove again. Small sacrifices are necessary for the bigger picture. But I still don't have the best knack of choosing the best game of the three to focus on watching, which is frustrating. Take last night: out of Paraguay vs Slovakia, Italy vs New Zealand and Brazil vs Ivory Coast I picked the latter. I thought it was a no-brainer - six-time champs against a top African team led by Chelsea's Didier Drogba... but my doubts got to me when I awoke from my slumber at 4am, finding two texts from Penny mentioning how awesome it was that Italy and NZ drew. I couldn't fathom this at 4am. I still can't fathom it now. THEY DREW??? 1-ALL?? Wow, so New Zealand are the surprise packet of the tournament so far, holding the reigning champions and a decent European side to draws. It's astounding - THEY'RE DOING BETTER THAN AUSTRALIA. There, I said it. And I'm actually annoyed that I haven't really seen them play properly. Therefore making the game vs Paraguay my must watch.

So the Brazil-Ivory Coast game was still good. Great plays by the Brazilians, especially leading to that first goal by Luis Fabiano. Genius. But Drogba didn't go unheard of, which is a relief for I.C. I'm sure. Loved that the Brazilian defenders missed him completely and couldn't do anything but stand there gaping. It's funny to watch.

I also discovered I love saying Cote d'Ivoire. If I was a commentator I'd always say that in a put-on husky voice with my newly learned French accent: 'Cote d'Ivoooooire...' Very intriguing.

Hours of sleep: 5. Had brekky before it ended and got ready for work just after it finished. Didn't fall asleep - because I left the heater off. Small sacrifices = bigger picture.

Dear Diary,

I couldn't bring myself to write in here again before now, I'm still crushed by the Socceroos' loss. After my last entry I slept in my sorrows for five hours and still felt like absolute shite when I had to get out of bed. Yes, even though it was a public holiday I still had to get up. Can't believe they're considering suspending Tim Cahill for TWO games because of the red card. If anything I would think FIFA had the authority to REVOKE the decision because it was unwarranted. However, the upside to yesterday was that I managed to get myself on TV. TWO stations (Nine and Ten), one as a vox pop with a comment (thanks Nick lol) and one belting out the national anthem with scarf above head. Sound embarrassing? It still is. But for some reason I find myself hilarious. Should I be admitting that? Now I feel like a comedian should when they laugh at their own jokes: like a douche.

Last night I have to admit I hit struggle town. Now, lately I've been okay with handling long hours at work and everything else, but I think adrenaline has a lot to do with it. Watched bits and pieces of Netherlands v Denmark (the og was HILARIOUS, at least the guy himself saw the humour in it), but I was really keen on Italy v Paraguay at 4am. So after sitting in front of the lappy until midnight I got my shuteye.

First half, I was fine. Saw Paraguay's goal, the Italians were panicking and noticed they had a few younger players in their squad (although it's interesting that they're still a VERY strong side and it's the oldest in the Cup). Second half, kept drifting off... 'woke up' at one stage to see a 1-all scoreline, nodding in agreement. Next thing I notice it's NOT 3-1 in Italy's favour. Guess the images I saw of two extra goals being scored were figments of my imagination. My bad. Before I know it, it's 6am and Mum's asking me to take her to work. And so began my day.

Hours of sleep: 4. Have slight headache, but that could be from straining my brain at French class before. I couldn't remember what 'vous vous appelez comment' meant when she sprang that on me. It's only what we learnt in the first lesson... Idiot.

OMG, NEW ZEALAND JUST SCORED. WHAAAAT??? First goal for NZ at the Cup in 28 years apparently. First POINT in Cup history (think I heard that right). HA, they've drawn with Slovakia. Wow, that's fair impressive. Go All Whites. Ok, looks like I'm ending this on a good note. Ivory Coast and Portugal to come. Brazil later a possibility.